A Week in Lisbon: What's Actually Worth Your Time
It's easy to get Lisbon wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I tried to hail a taxi on Rua Augusta, only to realize the city's cobbled streets are better suited for trams than cars. The sun was already high, and I was sweating through my shirt, chasing a yellow tram that seemed to vanish around a corner. By the time I caught it, I'd missed the first stop where I wanted to get off. Lisbon isn't a city you rush through—it's a city you savor, one slow sip of coffee at a time. My favorite spot for that slow sip is a tiny café called A Cevicheria, tucked away on Rua do Ouro, just off the main square. It's not on any tourist map, but the locals know it well. I ordered a bica (a strong espresso) for 1.20 euros and a pastel de nata, the iconic custard tart, for 0.80 euros. The owner, a woman named Maria, greeted me by name after my second visit. "You're back," she said with a smile. "I saved you a seat." That's the m...